Kilchoman

About the Kilchoman

Kilchoman Madeira Cask is a peated single malt Scotch whisky from Islay, bottled at 50% ABV. The distillery sits on Rockside Farm near the island's western shore, a few fields back from the Atlantic. Madeira casks give this release a sweeter, fruitier edge. Most of the range grows up in bourbon wood instead. It is Scotch made on a working farm, which is rarer than it sounds. Anthony and Kathy Wills founded the distillery in 2005 and farm the land around it. Roughly 440 acres go to barley each year, yielding up to 440 tonnes at harvest. Some of that grain is malted on site, on floors turned by hand, a practice almost gone from Scotland. The stills are among the smallest in the country. Long copper contact and a 90 hour fermentation shape the spirit before any cask touches it. The nose leads with brown sugar and caramel, then a medicinal, briny note pushes through. Vanilla and a little leather sit behind that. Sipping it, the texture turns oily and sweet, with honey, licorice and a dry ash smokiness. Dried fruit from the Madeira runs right through the middle. The finish holds salt and smoky peat together with a dark chocolate bitterness that lingers. Most of the Kilchoman core range grows up in bourbon barrels, which keeps the peat sharp and bright. Madeira works differently. The fortified wine leaves a heavier fruit sweetness that wraps around the smoke instead of stepping aside for it. The higher bottling strength keeps the two in focus rather than blurring them. If you already know this farm spirit, here it is wearing much heavier clothes.